DAY 5: Milpark Lodge to Ugezi Tiger Lodge (Cahora Bassa)
Departure time
07:30 As a result of last nights’ keen attempt to stargaze out our rooftent’s mosquito-proof windows, we woke up freezing and damp from dew. I don’t even know what the time was as Elmien’s watch broke, I’m not surprised as the instructions to set the device were directly translated from Chinese and although apparently waterproof, ceased ticking after swimming in the sea. Nevertheless, it was early, and the view that struck me as I poked my head out the tent door was one of a magical sunrise over the northern Mozambican landscape. We ate our usual breakfast of mini chocolate soccer balls and coffee and packed up our campsite, ready to depart at 07:00. This was a miracle for our dear Isuzu and her packing clan, who usually hinder departure, although this time we were slightly delayed by Riegardt, who thought it would be fun to play lego on the Jimny roof with jerry cans and camping gear. Suzie was eventually set for Cahora Bassa, 400km from Milpark, beginning the day’s drive.
Arrival time
15:30 You know you’re thick in the African bush when the white-bearded Captain Morgan legend, Kingsley Holgate passes you in his indestructible Land Rover. Nico was ready to turn the Isuzu around and tail Kingsley’s dust, however Jumbo Jimny, whose driver failed to notice the renowned African traveller, had to refuel – the little red Suzuki momentarily stole the role as bum vehicle of the trip. The excitement was eventually replaced by hunger, instigating the hunt for a picnic tree along the dry Mozambican road. Two hours later, when the arid land had not granted us with more than a thorn bush, the sandy ground became an acceptable brunch stop of steak rolls and pineapple sweeter than Koo’s. Of course, a mere 2km further down the road, Mama Africa presented us with a luscious and leafy shade-generous tree. Despite the day’s luck, Suzie lead us directly to our destination, the fourth largest dam in Africa, funded and built by South Africa The boom-gate operator therefore evidently believed us to be as generous after identifying us as South Africans, as after we gave him a pen, he proceeded to ask Riegardt for his cell phone and Raymond for money. Thereafter we drove the short distance to Ugezi Tiger Lodge.
Road conditions The people who evaluate Mozambican roads must have confused bad conditions and potholes with rogue domestic animals. Chickens, cows, goats, sheep and pigs cross the road at random to such an extent that “passop vir die donkie” has replaced the “over and out” concluding statement on the walkie talkie.
Weather conditions 32’ So much for Winter.
Campsite
After Nico’s comfortable stay at Milpark Lodge, the luxury of a soft bed replaced the ‘rough and tough’ camping attitude and we were all were booked to stay in dam-side chalets. In comparison to the campsite, this was definitely his best idea yet as hot water was once again absent, as was toilet paper, and ablution cleanliness was minimal. Saved from the task of setting up camp, Elmien tossed the camping attitude too and we ate at the lodge restaurant, famous for its fish, Bream, which arrived whole on the plate, lips pouted and eyes sorrowful, awaiting fate.
Personal Cahora Bassa is beautiful. The 275km stretch of water nestled between valleys of Mozambican mountains attracted us for a sunset booze cruise aboard two M-babe-like vessels. Ryan, Riegardt, Izel and I unfortunately got the skipper who spoke no English; whereas the others had the driver who spoke so much no one else could get a word in. Despite this, he was sweet and our trip on the dam and visit to the dam wall was spectacular.
DAY 6: Ugezi Tiger Lodge to Chinguni Lodge Mvuu Lodge
Departure time
08:45 I have begun to question the sanity of the Kili climbing crew – you would think we had an Ultimate Survival/Candid Camera crew filming us along the way. I woke to Izel’s moans and complaints that she was made a meal of by mosquitoes, despite the fact that she had a bright blue mozzie net hanging unopened above her bed, and tales of Ryan’s sleep-talking venture as random football-related outbursts kept the chalet alongside awake through the night. Thankful for Nico’s clever chalet initiative, we were saved from clearing and packing duties, and as a result, planned to have a hilltop breakfast overlooking the sunrise in the gorge beyond the dam wall. I began doubting my climbing ability when just the hike to the top of the hill proved to be a challenge, and the view that met us took my already short breath away. Let’s hope this isn’t a scary foreshadowing of the near Kilimanjaro climb.
Arrival time
18:37 The steep sand roads that snake around the Mozambican mountains surrounding Cahora Bassa created a natural playground for our overloaded 4x4s. The boys drove their vehicles along the sandy tracks, sending dust and stones flying as if they were monster trucks, though calmed down when we hit tar, ceasing the 4x4 fun. Elmien, undeterred by the momentary break from play-time, decided she would once again attempt her walkie talkie hurdle, however after pressing every button simultaneously, proceeded to talk into the device without holding the necessary button in, rendering her mission worthless. After the device rang without warning, sending Elmien into the air, she gave up on the boys’ toys and turned her attention to the bizarre and comical occurrences outside the bakkie, occasionally demonstrated by Izel. The people beyond our windows are thoroughly entertaining and we were pleased to notice that AIDS warnings have reached northern Mozambican regions, however not as constructively as the condom distributers initially anticipated, unless they wanted young boys to parade with the blown up contraceptives attached to their stomachs. Despite an imperfect start, Mozambique presented humorous incidents, warm turquoise waters and stunning sunrises, ultimately providing an ideal set off to our Kili trip, though the Mozambican roads, as infinite as we wished them to be, ended with the beginning of those in Malawi.
I wish African borders were more like Land Rovers than Isuzus: Efficient and quick as opposed to slow and not efficient. Suzie estimated our time of arrival to be 13:47; however, due to Malawian border delays, we arrived at our final destination close to five hours later. The people in Malawi are friendly and keen to assist, though some individuals take this to the extreme. On arrival, when one man handed us the necessary paperwork, thirty others swarmed our bakkie, and whilst waiting for passports to be stamped, a young Malawian felt the desperate urge to clean our vehicles with filthy water. Vehicles dirtier than before, we passed through the gate into Malawi.
Road conditions Still waiting for bad roads
Weather conditions Hot
Campsite
Eager to finally reach our campsite, we arrived at the gate to meet Ernest, a night guard in the game reserve who began and ended every sentence with “as from now”, “as from this moment” or “as from this time”. He regretted to inform us that Chinguni Lodge, our planned place of rest, had “as from this moment closed”, although we would find Mvuu Lodge 28km further. With the warning of roaming elephants and rhinos, we began our night drive to our destination. Keen to set up camp and start supper, Nico thundered through the African bushveld, surprising an unsuspecting porcupine, casually going about his nocturnal business. Unfortunately for the poor spiked creature, he was the single most exciting animal our night drive had produced, causing Nico to bolt out the bakkie door just in time to snap a photo of its hind quills before disappearing into the thicket. What followed was a brilliant show of sheet lightning as bright white flashes illuminated the dense bush ahead. Nico emerged like Tarzan, king of the jungle, pleased with his paparazzi efforts to capture the frightened porcupine, resultantly scarred for the remainder of its life. Eventually we arrived at Mvuu Lodge, a beautiful setting in the Liwonde National Park. Welcome cocktails and briefing over, we set up camp.
DAY 7: Mvuu Lodge to Sunbird Steps camp site
Departure time
09:30 After last night, I’m so glad I sleep on the bakkie roof. You’d think we’d be accustomed to bush sounds and nag geluide, but the constant rustle of leaves and the knowledge of roaming elephants and hippos contributed to a few scared campers in the night. The disturbances were however overshadowed by a real breakfast of bacon and flapjacks as opposed to the usual mini chocolate soccer balls. Bellies fully satisfied, we departed the African bush, keen for the warm waters of Lake Malawi.
Arrival time
15:00 Along the road we came across a school where children sat on bricks under trees and one teacher educated a class of thirty on a single blackboard. We distributed bibles to each of the teachers as well as the headmaster, and after Izel was swamped to the extent that she almost got knocked over by screaming excited children, discontinued sharing lollipops and pens. To share their appreciation, the Malawian students stood proud to sing their National Anthem, concluding with a brief curtsy, and inspired with emotion, we continued our journey to Lake Malawi. In slight disbelief, we discovered the Land Rover was in need of a new car battery; even she, the mighty blikstik could not withstand the harsh African veld. In search we trekked down the dusty Malawian streets, fascinated by the simple public transportation on bicycles offered by locals. These fabulously decorated two-wheeled transport systems come with an extra seat above the back wheel to convey passengers, luggage, harvest and even livestock. Thrilled to have finally found a car battery, Nico gathered a few of these taxis for races, though in desperate haste to win in his own initiative, he ended up pushing the taxi driver on his bicycle to the finish line. When the rest of us eventually crossed the line, we drove the final few hundred kilometres, arriving at Sunbird Steps camp site at 15:00 to find South African footprints from Vredendal already imbedded in the sand.
Weather conditions Still hot.
Campsite
Having arrived relatively early, we contemplated baking our white bodies on the shores of the Lake or taking a boat ride to an island a few kilometres away to snorkel, the latter being the preferred choice. Once again we braved the waters in a fishy vessel to anchor on tropical soil off the mainland, where we leisurely snorkelled above a spectacle of bright fresh-water aquatic life. On return, we viewed a magnificent pink sunset that dyed the water a light mauve, and consoling though it was, instilled a slight chill over the water and initiated the need for a warm bath. If I must, I will use bushes as a toilet, sleep in just a sleeping bag under the stars, even eat tuna on salty cracks; however I have to be within short walking distance of a hot shower. Sunbird advertises hot water, although they fail to indicate just how to obtain this luxury. I believe Izel shares brainwaves with plumbing as she somehow understood the mechanisms behind the hot water in the copper piping. If you let the hot water drip out the tap, then turn the cold water on full pressure, you’ll have a perfectly pressured hot shower for approximately three seconds before you freeze. You then turn the cold water off, and repeat the process until the shampoo is rinsed from your hair.
Corinne, the single member of the Kili climbing crew who appears to have her head screwed on tightly, took the role of preparing fresh Butter Fish from the Lake. Her unstained record was however blemished in her attempts to poison poor Riegardt with Fanta, who unfortunately lay feverish in his tent after returning from the island. We proceeded to eat our Butter Fish with caution.
Personal Our internet situation has now reached the point where Nico stares forlornly at the laptop as if hoping the internet will magically appear and Izel is suffering severe side effects from lack of Facebook. In desperate attempt to connect, Nico bribed Ryan to drive him to the Lodge to get the internet working, half an hour later Ryan returned (on foot) to fetch the cable and 3 hours after that the two drove into the campsite, finally having managed to update the Kilimanjaro blog. We have bought a sim card and airtime in every country, yet to his great frustration, he can’t get the modem to work in any. If some greater power doesn’t grant us with magical connection powers soon, I’m afraid Nico might not make it.
DAY 8: Sunbird Steps camp site to Chitimba Lodge
Departure time
07:40 Our mornings are all quite similar, despite the fact that we wake to different surrounds each morning and the mini chocolate soccer balls have been finished and replaced with Milo cereal. I think the Lovetts secretly wake up at four to pack up before the rest of us open our eyes: they’re always cleared and ready to leave before the Isuzu – dubbed Soek-soek – has even been unlocked. Eager to be packed before Jimbo, Nico played drums with pots and pans against the side of the bakkie, and after finally packing the kitchen in its allocated area, we were on the road by twenty to eight.
Arrival time
18:00 Shortly after leaving the camp site we stopped to examine renowned Malawian artwork at curio stalls along the road. The meticulous carved detail on wooden animals, furniture, games, as well as jewellery is exquisite; however each stall contained the same necklaces, tables, games and small wooden creatures, eventually instigating slight ware when every Malawian friend calls you to look at his art and strikes a “nice price” bargain. Arms laden with curios, we ended our shopping spree, finally putting the men out their misery, and were back on the road by 8:30.
Perhaps Nico looks more criminal than we realised, or maybe Soek-soek just attracts bad luck, but every Malawian Police officer we pass first stops us, asks us for papers and double checks Nico’s drivers license before allowing us to wait as they casually stroll to leisurely open the boom gate for us to continue. They then proceed to ignore the vehicles travelling in convoy behind us, confirming my dodgy-Isuzu hypothesis, though despite her imperfections, she still managed to tough the rough African terrain on a skrik-vir-niks 4x4 trail to Nkhata Bay, our designated lunch-break beach. I believed our overloaded faulty Isuzu could disappoint no more, though accustomed to flaw, she proved me wrong on arrival at Chitimba camp site when Nico drove her through soft beach sand and then attempted to dig to China by vehemently spinning the wheels. Of course the Land Rover didn’t get stuck when Raymond saved the day, hauling dear Soek-soek out the deep Malawian soil, nor did the brave Suzuki, Jimbo, who flounced about the sand cart wheeling around our treasured bakkie without as much as sending a grain of sand flying. Surely our darling bakkie can do no more harm...
Weather conditions Guess what, it’s hot, at least it rained in the night.
Campsite We arrived to find our Vredendal friends already set up on the grassy camping ground, so we erected our tents on the infamous beach sand (later regretted by Nico). The facilities in the camp were very good, however hot water was lacking and an odd mirror in the bathroom distorted and re-proportioned your face to such an extent that your forehead appeared as long as your shins, but lucky for the keen South Africans sporting bright yellow Bafana Bafana t-shirts, the lodge offered a television on which we could watch our team.
Departure time
07:30 As a result of last nights’ keen attempt to stargaze out our rooftent’s mosquito-proof windows, we woke up freezing and damp from dew. I don’t even know what the time was as Elmien’s watch broke, I’m not surprised as the instructions to set the device were directly translated from Chinese and although apparently waterproof, ceased ticking after swimming in the sea. Nevertheless, it was early, and the view that struck me as I poked my head out the tent door was one of a magical sunrise over the northern Mozambican landscape. We ate our usual breakfast of mini chocolate soccer balls and coffee and packed up our campsite, ready to depart at 07:00. This was a miracle for our dear Isuzu and her packing clan, who usually hinder departure, although this time we were slightly delayed by Riegardt, who thought it would be fun to play lego on the Jimny roof with jerry cans and camping gear. Suzie was eventually set for Cahora Bassa, 400km from Milpark, beginning the day’s drive.
Arrival time
15:30 You know you’re thick in the African bush when the white-bearded Captain Morgan legend, Kingsley Holgate passes you in his indestructible Land Rover. Nico was ready to turn the Isuzu around and tail Kingsley’s dust, however Jumbo Jimny, whose driver failed to notice the renowned African traveller, had to refuel – the little red Suzuki momentarily stole the role as bum vehicle of the trip. The excitement was eventually replaced by hunger, instigating the hunt for a picnic tree along the dry Mozambican road. Two hours later, when the arid land had not granted us with more than a thorn bush, the sandy ground became an acceptable brunch stop of steak rolls and pineapple sweeter than Koo’s. Of course, a mere 2km further down the road, Mama Africa presented us with a luscious and leafy shade-generous tree. Despite the day’s luck, Suzie lead us directly to our destination, the fourth largest dam in Africa, funded and built by South Africa The boom-gate operator therefore evidently believed us to be as generous after identifying us as South Africans, as after we gave him a pen, he proceeded to ask Riegardt for his cell phone and Raymond for money. Thereafter we drove the short distance to Ugezi Tiger Lodge.
Road conditions The people who evaluate Mozambican roads must have confused bad conditions and potholes with rogue domestic animals. Chickens, cows, goats, sheep and pigs cross the road at random to such an extent that “passop vir die donkie” has replaced the “over and out” concluding statement on the walkie talkie.
Weather conditions 32’ So much for Winter.
Campsite
After Nico’s comfortable stay at Milpark Lodge, the luxury of a soft bed replaced the ‘rough and tough’ camping attitude and we were all were booked to stay in dam-side chalets. In comparison to the campsite, this was definitely his best idea yet as hot water was once again absent, as was toilet paper, and ablution cleanliness was minimal. Saved from the task of setting up camp, Elmien tossed the camping attitude too and we ate at the lodge restaurant, famous for its fish, Bream, which arrived whole on the plate, lips pouted and eyes sorrowful, awaiting fate.
Personal Cahora Bassa is beautiful. The 275km stretch of water nestled between valleys of Mozambican mountains attracted us for a sunset booze cruise aboard two M-babe-like vessels. Ryan, Riegardt, Izel and I unfortunately got the skipper who spoke no English; whereas the others had the driver who spoke so much no one else could get a word in. Despite this, he was sweet and our trip on the dam and visit to the dam wall was spectacular.
DAY 6: Ugezi Tiger Lodge to Chinguni Lodge Mvuu Lodge
Departure time
08:45 I have begun to question the sanity of the Kili climbing crew – you would think we had an Ultimate Survival/Candid Camera crew filming us along the way. I woke to Izel’s moans and complaints that she was made a meal of by mosquitoes, despite the fact that she had a bright blue mozzie net hanging unopened above her bed, and tales of Ryan’s sleep-talking venture as random football-related outbursts kept the chalet alongside awake through the night. Thankful for Nico’s clever chalet initiative, we were saved from clearing and packing duties, and as a result, planned to have a hilltop breakfast overlooking the sunrise in the gorge beyond the dam wall. I began doubting my climbing ability when just the hike to the top of the hill proved to be a challenge, and the view that met us took my already short breath away. Let’s hope this isn’t a scary foreshadowing of the near Kilimanjaro climb.
Arrival time
18:37 The steep sand roads that snake around the Mozambican mountains surrounding Cahora Bassa created a natural playground for our overloaded 4x4s. The boys drove their vehicles along the sandy tracks, sending dust and stones flying as if they were monster trucks, though calmed down when we hit tar, ceasing the 4x4 fun. Elmien, undeterred by the momentary break from play-time, decided she would once again attempt her walkie talkie hurdle, however after pressing every button simultaneously, proceeded to talk into the device without holding the necessary button in, rendering her mission worthless. After the device rang without warning, sending Elmien into the air, she gave up on the boys’ toys and turned her attention to the bizarre and comical occurrences outside the bakkie, occasionally demonstrated by Izel. The people beyond our windows are thoroughly entertaining and we were pleased to notice that AIDS warnings have reached northern Mozambican regions, however not as constructively as the condom distributers initially anticipated, unless they wanted young boys to parade with the blown up contraceptives attached to their stomachs. Despite an imperfect start, Mozambique presented humorous incidents, warm turquoise waters and stunning sunrises, ultimately providing an ideal set off to our Kili trip, though the Mozambican roads, as infinite as we wished them to be, ended with the beginning of those in Malawi.
I wish African borders were more like Land Rovers than Isuzus: Efficient and quick as opposed to slow and not efficient. Suzie estimated our time of arrival to be 13:47; however, due to Malawian border delays, we arrived at our final destination close to five hours later. The people in Malawi are friendly and keen to assist, though some individuals take this to the extreme. On arrival, when one man handed us the necessary paperwork, thirty others swarmed our bakkie, and whilst waiting for passports to be stamped, a young Malawian felt the desperate urge to clean our vehicles with filthy water. Vehicles dirtier than before, we passed through the gate into Malawi.
Road conditions Still waiting for bad roads
Weather conditions Hot
Campsite
Eager to finally reach our campsite, we arrived at the gate to meet Ernest, a night guard in the game reserve who began and ended every sentence with “as from now”, “as from this moment” or “as from this time”. He regretted to inform us that Chinguni Lodge, our planned place of rest, had “as from this moment closed”, although we would find Mvuu Lodge 28km further. With the warning of roaming elephants and rhinos, we began our night drive to our destination. Keen to set up camp and start supper, Nico thundered through the African bushveld, surprising an unsuspecting porcupine, casually going about his nocturnal business. Unfortunately for the poor spiked creature, he was the single most exciting animal our night drive had produced, causing Nico to bolt out the bakkie door just in time to snap a photo of its hind quills before disappearing into the thicket. What followed was a brilliant show of sheet lightning as bright white flashes illuminated the dense bush ahead. Nico emerged like Tarzan, king of the jungle, pleased with his paparazzi efforts to capture the frightened porcupine, resultantly scarred for the remainder of its life. Eventually we arrived at Mvuu Lodge, a beautiful setting in the Liwonde National Park. Welcome cocktails and briefing over, we set up camp.
DAY 7: Mvuu Lodge to Sunbird Steps camp site
Departure time
09:30 After last night, I’m so glad I sleep on the bakkie roof. You’d think we’d be accustomed to bush sounds and nag geluide, but the constant rustle of leaves and the knowledge of roaming elephants and hippos contributed to a few scared campers in the night. The disturbances were however overshadowed by a real breakfast of bacon and flapjacks as opposed to the usual mini chocolate soccer balls. Bellies fully satisfied, we departed the African bush, keen for the warm waters of Lake Malawi.
Arrival time
15:00 Along the road we came across a school where children sat on bricks under trees and one teacher educated a class of thirty on a single blackboard. We distributed bibles to each of the teachers as well as the headmaster, and after Izel was swamped to the extent that she almost got knocked over by screaming excited children, discontinued sharing lollipops and pens. To share their appreciation, the Malawian students stood proud to sing their National Anthem, concluding with a brief curtsy, and inspired with emotion, we continued our journey to Lake Malawi. In slight disbelief, we discovered the Land Rover was in need of a new car battery; even she, the mighty blikstik could not withstand the harsh African veld. In search we trekked down the dusty Malawian streets, fascinated by the simple public transportation on bicycles offered by locals. These fabulously decorated two-wheeled transport systems come with an extra seat above the back wheel to convey passengers, luggage, harvest and even livestock. Thrilled to have finally found a car battery, Nico gathered a few of these taxis for races, though in desperate haste to win in his own initiative, he ended up pushing the taxi driver on his bicycle to the finish line. When the rest of us eventually crossed the line, we drove the final few hundred kilometres, arriving at Sunbird Steps camp site at 15:00 to find South African footprints from Vredendal already imbedded in the sand.
Weather conditions Still hot.
Campsite
Having arrived relatively early, we contemplated baking our white bodies on the shores of the Lake or taking a boat ride to an island a few kilometres away to snorkel, the latter being the preferred choice. Once again we braved the waters in a fishy vessel to anchor on tropical soil off the mainland, where we leisurely snorkelled above a spectacle of bright fresh-water aquatic life. On return, we viewed a magnificent pink sunset that dyed the water a light mauve, and consoling though it was, instilled a slight chill over the water and initiated the need for a warm bath. If I must, I will use bushes as a toilet, sleep in just a sleeping bag under the stars, even eat tuna on salty cracks; however I have to be within short walking distance of a hot shower. Sunbird advertises hot water, although they fail to indicate just how to obtain this luxury. I believe Izel shares brainwaves with plumbing as she somehow understood the mechanisms behind the hot water in the copper piping. If you let the hot water drip out the tap, then turn the cold water on full pressure, you’ll have a perfectly pressured hot shower for approximately three seconds before you freeze. You then turn the cold water off, and repeat the process until the shampoo is rinsed from your hair.
Corinne, the single member of the Kili climbing crew who appears to have her head screwed on tightly, took the role of preparing fresh Butter Fish from the Lake. Her unstained record was however blemished in her attempts to poison poor Riegardt with Fanta, who unfortunately lay feverish in his tent after returning from the island. We proceeded to eat our Butter Fish with caution.
Personal Our internet situation has now reached the point where Nico stares forlornly at the laptop as if hoping the internet will magically appear and Izel is suffering severe side effects from lack of Facebook. In desperate attempt to connect, Nico bribed Ryan to drive him to the Lodge to get the internet working, half an hour later Ryan returned (on foot) to fetch the cable and 3 hours after that the two drove into the campsite, finally having managed to update the Kilimanjaro blog. We have bought a sim card and airtime in every country, yet to his great frustration, he can’t get the modem to work in any. If some greater power doesn’t grant us with magical connection powers soon, I’m afraid Nico might not make it.
DAY 8: Sunbird Steps camp site to Chitimba Lodge
Departure time
07:40 Our mornings are all quite similar, despite the fact that we wake to different surrounds each morning and the mini chocolate soccer balls have been finished and replaced with Milo cereal. I think the Lovetts secretly wake up at four to pack up before the rest of us open our eyes: they’re always cleared and ready to leave before the Isuzu – dubbed Soek-soek – has even been unlocked. Eager to be packed before Jimbo, Nico played drums with pots and pans against the side of the bakkie, and after finally packing the kitchen in its allocated area, we were on the road by twenty to eight.
Arrival time
18:00 Shortly after leaving the camp site we stopped to examine renowned Malawian artwork at curio stalls along the road. The meticulous carved detail on wooden animals, furniture, games, as well as jewellery is exquisite; however each stall contained the same necklaces, tables, games and small wooden creatures, eventually instigating slight ware when every Malawian friend calls you to look at his art and strikes a “nice price” bargain. Arms laden with curios, we ended our shopping spree, finally putting the men out their misery, and were back on the road by 8:30.
Perhaps Nico looks more criminal than we realised, or maybe Soek-soek just attracts bad luck, but every Malawian Police officer we pass first stops us, asks us for papers and double checks Nico’s drivers license before allowing us to wait as they casually stroll to leisurely open the boom gate for us to continue. They then proceed to ignore the vehicles travelling in convoy behind us, confirming my dodgy-Isuzu hypothesis, though despite her imperfections, she still managed to tough the rough African terrain on a skrik-vir-niks 4x4 trail to Nkhata Bay, our designated lunch-break beach. I believed our overloaded faulty Isuzu could disappoint no more, though accustomed to flaw, she proved me wrong on arrival at Chitimba camp site when Nico drove her through soft beach sand and then attempted to dig to China by vehemently spinning the wheels. Of course the Land Rover didn’t get stuck when Raymond saved the day, hauling dear Soek-soek out the deep Malawian soil, nor did the brave Suzuki, Jimbo, who flounced about the sand cart wheeling around our treasured bakkie without as much as sending a grain of sand flying. Surely our darling bakkie can do no more harm...
Weather conditions Guess what, it’s hot, at least it rained in the night.
Campsite We arrived to find our Vredendal friends already set up on the grassy camping ground, so we erected our tents on the infamous beach sand (later regretted by Nico). The facilities in the camp were very good, however hot water was lacking and an odd mirror in the bathroom distorted and re-proportioned your face to such an extent that your forehead appeared as long as your shins, but lucky for the keen South Africans sporting bright yellow Bafana Bafana t-shirts, the lodge offered a television on which we could watch our team.
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